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may be you can try spraying at the back side of the panel, that reduce temperature too. Exited to see the results...

there was a company in Arizona that was making a panel you could buy for a while. you just pluged it in and it would automatically shut down for a power outage. when I tried to find the company on line they were out of business before they got started. If you are feeding back through a circut on your house you would not want to exceed 1800 watts and that would be running the max your curcut is rated for.

This is not a fair test. The average distance from the ground plane should be the same. The big advantage with flat mounting is during cloudy days.

Using pools that are being heated by the sun is a bad idea... You should've at least put the pools in the shade or something, but even better for this system would be to make the water flow through a radiator, logically, there has to be a substantial temperature difference between the water entering the cooling system and the water coming out of it, right? And you saw how there's only a 2 fake degree difference between the water coming out of the hose and the water in the pool.

10% gains negated by a billions of gallons of water loss 😮

I think you should try to cycle the water being used so it doesn't just spill, have a system with a tank that gets topped up and the water that washes over your panels gets pumped back into the tank, this would greatly reduce the water usage. You could also use misting. Or the absolute best way is using a closed radiation system.

A mist system that starts based on the temperature would us very little water and have evaporation

I didn't know you could plug in two Delta Pros (with a hub) into the Smart Home Panel 2. Thought only the newer stuff could plug into it. HUH

Great test showing how much solar farms would lose if the panels didn’t follow the sun.

Could the cooling effect be the cause of the gain or do you think the water on the panel is acting like a lens, amplifying the light? One way to find out is to warm the water to the temp of the panel sitting in the sun and repeat the test.

Brah your ladder climb gave me anxiety 😭

Only 720p?

I was cautioned to disconnect the solar panel when driving the car. Not sure what the reasoning was, but the panel could be damaged by the car generator power? My current need is to keep my Prius battery ready, since all the electronics in the Prius will drain the battery in 3 weeks if not driven! I've had to jump-start it twice at the airport after long trips 😞 Did you learn anything about what happens when the battery is fully charged and still connected to the solar panel? Any updated recommendations? Add the diode? Other?

There's a reason that high-tension power lines run much higher voltages than house current. And a somewhat related reason that AC dominates over DC, although DC can definitely be transmitted. If I was doing my house to replace grid power, I'd be looking at the storage devices available and trying to match the panels and the wiring to them for best effect, reliability, and longevity. And the copper wire probably (expensive as it is) would be a comparatively minor component of the cost. I'd likely favor the largest gauge practical, because the expense is one-time. Also, panels are necessarily outdoor, and need appropriate provision for electrical storms, which (I imagine) might be a relevant factor. Surely I'd want the advice of a competent engineer, either independently or with a trusted vendor; too many places to make mistrakes.

4:52 Squirrel!! 🐕

To make the test more credible, you should measure through a full day's light cycle and not just 1 to 3 pm.

No wonder it overheats, combining 2 in one box. It should have a CPU fan or better=2.

Why does wattage lowers when increasing cable size? With 12 AWG cable, you had 657 Wh of power at the generator while it is only 443 with 8 AWG cable.

Cooling costs money.

Good idea Eco flow delta pro 3 check online 😎👍

I'm more interested in wire sizes on batteries. I believe you need bigger wire on a 12v system, and a little smaller on 48v. I'd like to know what size to use on a 48v battery

What happens if your amps are greater than 15?

eeehhhhh...here in SW FL, USA and hurricanes-plenty, what's the big-deal with 2-days (max) public utilities damage recovery? seriously, its not a big-deal to got without electricity a few days. Instead of $1000s for such a rig!! Gotta tell ya, putting all those holes in the fella's roof for panel mounts...THAT worries me most-of-all. There's GOTTA be a better-way, right??!

I would put a big heat sink on the back of the panel, and a fan for more air flow, fans don't take much power so the power drawn from the fan would be nothing compared to the benefit with the increase of efficiency. Some thermoelectric modules could also be placed between the panel and the heatsink, but would it be that big of a difference? Especially considering that it would probably need some temperature monitoring, if someone tried I'd like to see it in video 🙂

I have two Ecoflow 100 watt rigid panels and a delta max. I want to be able to operate basics during an extended power outage or a tiny window AC. What else do I need to have? I’m going to get two more panels. Any advice would be helpful.

Click bait warning. Totally unsafe poor linesman that disconnects your power on to find out the line is still live. Dangerous to say the least get ready to be sued by the wife of the dead or injured linesman.

Wrong

@5:35 Just a clarification - the product doesn't have to be tested by UL but to the UL Standard governing that inverter/controller. There are a number of labs that can certify to that UL standard but it doesn't have to be Underwriter's Laboratories that does the actual testing. So if you don't see a UL mark, there could be a CSA / CUL mark PTL mark or any other number of lab markings along with the UL standard that the lab tested to. It might be marked with something like "UL Certified to UL1741" or it could also be marked "PTL Certified to UL1741" or "CSA / UL Certified to UL1471", etc. All the test labs are audited regarding their equipment and testing methodologies to make sure they are all testing the same and to the standards. A business can also self-certify which means that they have their own in house lab that is certified to test for whichever UL standard(s) their products need to meet. So, don't make it the UL that you are looking for, but the UL Standard, or IEEE standard or CSA standard, etc is marked. I can see one marking, top left, but I cannot see any specifics. The unit is marked CE, which probably means that it meets requirements for the European Economic Area, basically the EU.

Eco flow delta pro 3 check online 😎👍

My panels go fom ~1800 Watts down to ~1150 Watts once the panels heat up; This happens right after clouds move away, and the Sun suddenly shines fully; so they go from cool to hot in ~15 seconds They are 8 old (8 or 10 years) 240 watt panels, 60 cells each, and they almost never go above 1200 watts; Also the temp gun does not measure its temp well, it may read only 40ºC, but i cannot hold my hand on them, i would burn, they seem to be way over 60ºC or more; I think i would have A LOT of gain by keeping them cool with a water film,i just do not do it, it's too much work, and i am a bit fed up with mounting the panels on the roof of the house, wiring, inverters, MPPTs, BMSs, fuses, relays , timers,apps... etc., and as we all know, the key to solar is to oversize it, and the way i have it, i now go months in a row 100% off grid; this is after i abandoned the Hi voltage (380VDC) cheap china inverters (they ALL burn up, cannot be repaired, they erase the ICs numbers... avoid..) and converted to LOW (48VDC) voltage inverter and toroidal trafo( 3000 Watts++) of 23 Kg weight, all cooled by a few old computer fans on 50 cent TO220 thermostats.

What happens if you use parallel? From experience, used 4 panels that are greater than the battery recommend. However the ecoflow delta adjusted accordingly. Using series, increased the voltage which can in return fry the xt socket.

I run my y&h older 700watt model with 780 watts 36v. Its been running for over two years still works even though its so hot you cant even hold your hand to it. It puts out about 2.5 AC kwh per day. My kwh cost is 30 cents so it produces 75 cents of power per day or around 22 bucks per month (4 months to payoff the inverter)

I did not watch through completely, just kinda scanned so i could have missed it? what about "pulsing" the water flow, maybe on for 10 seconds off for 30 seconds...? with a collector at the bottom to recycle the water. Can the increased energy be used to pump the water and still get an overall gain. (kinda like a swamp cooler pump?)

This video solves part of the questions. Still unclear what is "positive side", since one positive side goes to the panel and the other also positive side to the inverter, but the connectors are opposite.

Two thoughts. MN USA with 11.6 kw ac ground mount. 1. My local code restricts the total height of panels off of the roof so stuck with the roof pitch. For ground mount, I would bias the tilt a bit towards the winter angle. During the summer there is lots of solar and your system is likely to clip (max out) your inverter, while there is less energy in winter sun due to the low sun angle.

I think the water on top of the panel will reflect the light to a certain degree, as well as perhaps causing refraction, dispersion and diffusion of the light which will lower the irradiance at the plane of the solar panel. Then of course, even if the water is recycled, energy is still required to keep the water pump going which most likely cancels out the small performance gain we get from the panel. So while being an interesting experiment, I don’t think this solution has any practical benefits. One thing that would be more interesting to try out perhaps is to put a few big fans below the solar panel, which causes a forced convection of air current to move along the backside of the panel. I imagine that rotating a few 12V fans would require a lot less energy than what is required to run a water pump. The fans could be powered by the solar system itself, and there could be a temperature sensor on the solar panel so that the fans won’t run unnecessarily on an overcast day. It’s not practical for me personally in my setup to put fans behind a panel and try this, but I hope someone else will do it sometime and post the results on RUclips.

Instead of pouring lots of cold water on the panels, you could try to spray a little mist. Then water evaporating would cool the panels with minimal water consumption.

An idea I had was a rain collection system tied to the gutters. Then a solar powered pump taking the water out of the rain barrel/ibc tote to spray on the panels. Any water that didn't' evaporate would recollect in the gutters and refill the barrel. Sure you might have to add water from the tap occasionally but if you have enough tank capacity, maybe not. Add a low pressure timer so that it comes on during the hot part of the day and it would save water. I just picked up a simple solar water pump for $17 for another project. It would be enough to pump for 1-2 panels. so it can be done on the cheep. Just make sure the tank is in the shade so it stays cool enough.

It may be beter if you recycled the water

Heat rises, cool water under anything will not cool it. Also, by insulating the bottom you are trapping heat in the panel that would otherwise escape to ambient air. Finned aluminum panel on the back side would do way better in my opinion. I was an industrial refrigeration tech for 11 years, its all about heat transfer, heat rises, water is a WAY better conductor of heat than air but plastic is not.. Just my thoughts, no offence intended!

This dude have no concept of thermodynamics really disappointed my 3rd grader could have done a better video.

Something not mentioned is what are the power losses from hard water deposits on the panel? Where I live (western Oklahoma) we have pretty hard water not to mention my water bill would be way more than the loss due to heat. Food for thought!

Bi facials need to be mounted vertically.

You really fail to understand the purpose and how to use bifacial panels.

Hope you don't have hard water.

I just purchased an Ecoflow pro and an echoflow 400 watt panel. What guage wire cable should I use?? I need to buy a 25ft cable, just not sure of the guage. I’m leaning toward 10 guage.

For $380 more I opted for the 4C.

can i connect a 100w and a 50w panel together

I am guessing the parallel comfiguration performs well in cloudy conditions

Can try using the first experiment water spray set up. Build a catchment trough at bottom to catch the run off water and recirculate. This will safe water. +- a filter to avoid blockage. . Nice work a joy to watch your videos. 👍